Quivira: A Zin that works with Italian
As any wine aficionado will tell you, the extensive cultivation of Zinfandel is an American thing. But when scientists took a look at this varietal’s genome (DNA) as compared to Old World wines, the evidence said that it actually originated in Croatia.
In later years, the Croatian/Italian Zin clones were transplanted (via one immigrant at a time) to California during the birth of our country. Then why do most Zinfandels seem to taste different than wines from Croatia (their Crljenak Kastelanskior) or Italy (their Primitivo)?
The answer is that the California’s (and also Arizona’s) climate, wine making, soil, and a variety of other factors are at work here. When all of these conditions combine in a complex way, the lively taste of American Zins generally come forward in a class by themselves. Of course, as with anything, there are exceptions.
One of these is Quivera’s 2012 vintage from Dry Creek Valley. It starts out with a bouquet of brambly boysenberry, a little warm toast, and an earthiness that is quite reminiscent of its Old World “cousins”. But the similarities don’t end there.
On the palate, a blast of crisp dark fruit is supported by a firm acidic backbone. This comes off as no fruity, jammy California Zin. However, its long peppery finish is similar to others from the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys.
So, this “little piggy” makes for a very appealing pairing partner for a variety of cuisines that normally work well with Italian wines. This includes dishes like marinara pasta, BBQ ribs, and chili burgers. Even rotate this one back to the beginning of the meal with a plate of sharp cheddar & Parmesan chips. And if you’re brave, slices of pepper jack cheese (the peppery finish amplifies the cheese’s spice).
Because of its character, the 2012 Quivira Zin is what many refer to as a “food friendly” wine. In other words, this style is not recommended to enjoy solo, it belongs on the table as a condiment, just as you would with its Mediterranean relatives.
You can find it at Total Wine for under $25. Note that this wine varies with the vintage year, and if you can find both the 2012 and 2013, a comparison tasting may be quite interesting.
About the Author - Tom Peiffer
Tom has been an avid wine consumer and collector for over 20 years. This pastime has taken he and his family on many visits to wine growing regions, including Arizona. During these excursions, with the accompanying tastings and lectures, it became clear that there is no "magic bullet" wine. For each wine contains its own character, strong points, and weaknesses. Sharing these experiences to help anyone purchase locally available wines is his goal.
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