Certifiable: Pomo Cucina & Pizzeria Napoletana

What is it that makes a restaurant authentic? Is it the age or creativity of a recipe? Is it the cost or the length one went to locate the ingredients? Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana owner Stefano Fabbri believes it’s the people; those the created or inspired the recipes; those that wore their fingers to the bones planting and cultivating the ingredients; and the people that work day in and out crafting and creating the food that arrives at your table night after night.

Stefano has worked hard to cultivate an Italian spirit in every corner and crevice of his restaurant. This is done is a variety of ways. First, he has 10 kitchen staff members that are Italian, and by Italian, I don’t mean someone’s grandmother is from some place near Italy. These staff members are Italian in the sense that they just moved here for the job. Stefano posted on Italian job boards looking for American citizens of Italian descent living in Italy that were looking for a great opportunity and reason to settle in America one more time.

The majority of the ingredients used here, much like the employees of Pomo, are imported. Italian Master Chef Matteo Schiavone has 30 years’ experience in Neapolitan pizzerias in Italy and he leads Daniele Lombardo, Bruno Schiavone and Luigi Gherardi all who man the pizza oven. Francesca Ciro mans (or woman’s if you will) the kitchen and Luca Todini is their sommelier. Each and every kitchen employee as authentic Italian as the products used in their pizzas.

One of the things that Stefano is most proud of is the quality of the products. All imported products are certified DOP (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta.) This is a certification that is issued and guaranteed by the European Union that is used to identify and guarantee that a specific product is authentic. This means that the San Marzano tomatoes used in all the sauce are actually from San Marzano, grown on the volcanic plains to the South of Mount Vesuvius, and not some American company that tried to trick you by calling themselves San Marzano. Pomo is also the only pizzeria in the Valley that is VPN certified. The VPN (Vera Pizza Napoletana) is an international non-profit organization that gives designation to pizzerias that meet strict requirements that respect and utilize the tradition of the art of Neapolitan pizza making. They will verify that the dough is made with only Italian flour, yeast, sea salt and water in a specific type of mixer. They watch to see how long the dough rises for during all phases as well as specific wood fired oven requirements. This is serious business and ensures that if a company touts that they are VPN certified and are using DOP products you are sure to get an amazing piece of art on your plate.

With so much care being given to the creation and authenticity of the pizzas here, you would have to imagine that the taste is like nothing you have ever experienced. You would be so deliciously right in that assumption. You have the opportunity to sit on the rail and oversee the creation of every pizza; from the delicate and methodically stretching, the delicate placement of sauce and ingredients all the way to the pie’s 60-90 second visit to the specially designed pizza oven. So, the question is, is the difference in taste something you would notice? I’m sure the many loyal patrons would respond with an enthusiastic and resounding, “Yes!”

The style of pizza here is exactly what you would find in any pizzeria in Napoli worth its name, if not better. The pizza here cannot be compared to any American pizza you have encountered, and likely enjoyed. Traditional Italian pizza is eaten with a fork and knife, which is due to the moistness of the pie. According to Stefano, some people have come in and actually attempted to return the pizza, claiming that it wasn’t fully cooked. Stefano and all his staff take these opportunities as a teaching moment, without being condescending or attempting to make the patrons feel as if they are wrong in their assessments. Your authentic pizza Napoletana will be delivered to you smaller than you may be accustomed to. Typically a party of two will be best off to order two pizzas to split between them. Better yet, bring a large group of friends or family and order a variety of styles to ensure that you can try a little of everything. The pizza may seem a bit wet to you, which can be confusing and something most Americans are not used to. The liquid from the sauce and cheese combined with the incredibly high temperature the pizza oven is at results in a slightly moist center. Given a chance, this allows the freshness of the ingredients and flavors to mingle together and create a symphony of texture meets flavor that you will notice missing in any non-authentic pizza you experience after.

On the topic of toppings, they are in limited supply, and for good reason. With the care and concern taken for the authenticity of the ingredients, you want to experience the quality of them in their purest form. You want, and deserve, to fully experience and taste each individual component of the pie as well as the delicate dance that is the combination. The Regina Margherita is almost a lesson in flavor development. This pizza is comprised of San Marzano tomatoes, Fior Di Latte (mozzarella made from a cow, not a water buffalo), Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil. This pizza is so basic, yet so clean and flavorful. The simplicity and extreme quality of the ingredients make this dish exquisite and should be that basis that all pizzas should be judged. You can dress your pie with Italian Salame Rosette (the Diavola) and some Italian sausage and red bell pepper (Don Alfonso) or just some fresh ricotta (Peppino). No matter the combination that you choose, you’re guaranteed to have everything that you have thought you knew about pizza turned upside down and you’ll never look at a pie in the same light.

Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana is located at:

8977 N. Scottsdale Road| Scottsdale| 85253| 480.998.1366

705 N. 1st St.| Phoenix| 85004| 602.795.2555

366 N. Gilbert Road| Gilbert| 85234| 480.878.2222

19420 N. 59th Ave.| Glendale| 85308| 623.777.1868

This article originally appeared in the April 2014 issue of So Scottsdale Magazine.