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Santa Rita Hills: Surprising Pinot Noirs north of L.A.

In most of California’s wine growing areas, microclimates are created by mountains that block cool winds from the ocean, creating hot days and cool nights.  But Santa Rita Hills is known for how the mountains don’t block, but actually funnel, the ocean air inland 24/7.

So, even though the sun in this Santa Barbara County location as just as intense as it is in the rest of the southern US, Santa Rita Hills is actually cooler than many regions much further to the north. The secret is an east-west valley with ocean breezes that keep things from getting too hot.  This, along with perfect soil composition, makes Santa Rita’s delicate Pinots and Chardonnays simply brilliant.

As the first operation to produce Pinot Noir in the area, Sanford Winery and Vineyards has been continuously improving their ability to produce world class wines from this finicky Burgundian grape for over 35 years running.  But somehow they have managed to maintain a rustic style in their vineyards and winery operation that still has much of the same rural “winery in the vineyard” feel as it garnered back in the ’70’s.  This makes it an essential wine tour stop.

Last year, Sanford continued their stream of winemaking accolades by nabbing a gold medal for one of their 2009 Pinots in the S.F. Chronicle’s wine tasting.  Produced using fruit from their “Sanford and Benedict” vineyard, this 2009 beauty delivers on the gold.

With a bouquet of cherries and rhubarb that gives way to aromas of mushrooms plus sage dust, this wine demands to be enjoyed in one of those fragile wide-body Pinot glasses that you keep stashed well out of reach.  A peppery blast lightly dissipates in a balanced finish hinting that it will be long-lived in the bottle.

There could even be a few more awards in the offing for this one as it makes the rounds.  Sanford’s past vintages have been consistently rated in the 90’s, making it a good bet.

You can find this puppy in the$60 range at bottle shops that carry Sanford, but most likely it would be easier to grab their Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir in the $40 range. Try it first, and if you like, go on a search for the Sanford and Benedict to rack as a keeper.

Also be sure to note, that in the movie “Sideways”, Santa Barbara County was a big part of the filming; as were the comedic, yet accurate, references to their fine Pinot Noirs.  You just never know where the pursuit of Pinot will take you.

Article by Tom Peiffer, Phoenix Wine Shopping Examiner at Examiner.com

View more of Tom’s articles on Examiner.com by visiting his writer’s page.

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