Noceto: An American Sangiovese on a roll

Most of the time, the search for a good American vino made from the Sangiovese grape (aka spaghetti wine) ends up with vintners who have become dedicated specialists in the varietal.  Even today, after years of focused plantings and experimentation, production has remained below demand making the supply of good American Sangiovese spotty.  But it’s not as bad as it was.

One of these specialists, who has product consistently appearing on Arizona shelves, is Noceto.  Their business has been growing since the ‘70’s and they have managed to develop their Sangiovese in a style that is very close to their Italian counterparts.  Now, as Noceto’s production moves past 10,000 cases per year, they are gradually becoming a cellar staple.

Their most commonly available selection is simply referred to as their “Sangiovese” and its grape vine colored label is nearly always visible at better wine outlets.  Although the “Riserva” and “Dos Oakies” are harder to get, Phoenix area AJs can order them from a local distributor.  None of these will clean out your wallet; they are all under $30.

But their basic Sangiovese selection is really quite good.  It has a lighter ruby color with a well defined balance between red berries plus a little earthiness in the bouquet, relatively low alcohol (about 14.3%), with a firm acidic structure to match many Italian dishes.

Specifically, this wine makes an excellent pairing partner for entrees like lasagna and manicotti.  Of course, there is always spaghetti, and that choice goes without saying.

Over the past few months AJs has been keeping this one regularly stocked at around $20.  At this price, it compares quite favorably with Italian Sangiovese wines having similar character and robustness, so don’t be afraid to run a little Noceto around the table with your Italian favorites.

Actually, comparisons between the Noceto and their Italian counterparts have become quite closer in recent vintages.  Blind tastings are getting to be a bit more challenging, especially against Banfi Wines, making the brown bag test “stumping the panel” happening a little more often.

So when Italian food becomes the cuisine of choice between lighter summer meals, be sure to keep extra Sangiovese-based wines on hand.  They are simple, but interesting, and there is nothing better to pour with the pasta.

Be sure to serve somewhat chilled from the fridge (50-60 degrees).